How to pack fragile items so they actually survive
China and dinnerware: each piece individually foam-wrapped. Use dish-pack boxes (corrugated dividers built in) — each plate or bowl in its own cell. Plates packed vertically, never stacked horizontally. Bowls and cups separate cells.
Glassware: stemware foam-wrapped at bowl and stem separately. Pack base-up. Dividers between glasses inside the box. Crystal and high-value glassware in their own dedicated box.
Mirrors and framed art: corner protectors first, then foam wrap around the entire frame. Smaller items in mirror boxes (telescoping cardboard). Larger pieces (over 1 meter) need plywood crating — not a DIY task. Mark "fragile, this side up" on multiple sides.
Electronics: original boxes are best (they're designed for the specific item). If the original box is gone, foam-wrap each component, then place in a fitted box with foam padding around all sides. Cables labelled and bagged separately.
Books: small boxes only. Vertical packing (spines up) keeps them undamaged. Don't fill a single box more than half full of books — the weight crushes the box and your back.
Vinyl records: vertical only, supported on edges. Climate-aware materials for sea freight. Standard cardboard is fine for short moves.
How to pack furniture for moving
Most furniture can be moved without disassembly for short local moves. For international moves and longer distances, disassembly significantly reduces damage risk and saves container space.
Disassemble: bed frames (especially metal frames with bolts), dining tables (legs off, top wrapped separately), wardrobes (most flatpack-style come apart), bookshelves (shelves out, frame wrapped), desks (legs off if possible).
Don't disassemble unless necessary: built-in or solid-wood pieces, antiques (where joinery is part of the value), upholstered furniture (sofas, chairs).
Wrapping protocol for non-disassembled pieces:
1. Furniture pad / moving blanket directly on the wood surface
2. Corner protectors on visible corners
3. Stretch wrap to hold pads in place
4. Mark "fragile" if upholstered or has glass/mirror inserts
For disassembled pieces: hardware (bolts, screws, brackets) bagged in clear plastic, taped to the largest piece of the disassembled item, photographed. Don't put hardware in a generic "hardware box" — it gets lost.
What not to pack
Hazardous: paint, paint thinner, gasoline, lighter fluid, propane tanks, aerosols (movers won't transport these and customs will reject containers carrying them).
Perishable: food (especially for international moves — most countries restrict food imports). Use up your pantry before move day.
Plants: international moves — most destinations restrict plant imports. Domestic moves — fine, but plants need care during transport.
Cash and jewellery: keep in your carry-luggage, not in the shipment. Standard transit insurance excludes these.
Important documents: passports, birth certificates, property deeds, contracts — carry-luggage only.
Prescription medications: carry-luggage with the prescription paperwork.
Inventory documentation
Number every box. Write on the side: box number, room of origin (KIT for kitchen, BED for bedroom, etc.), content category, and "FRAGILE" if applicable. Maintain a master list — paper or spreadsheet — with one row per box and a content summary. This list becomes your unpacking reference at destination, and for international moves it doubles as customs documentation and insurance documentation.
When to hire professionals instead
DIY packing makes sense for: studio and 1-bedroom moves between nearby addresses, low-value contents, when you have the time and an extra pair of hands. Professional packing makes sense for: 2-bedroom and up, fragile-heavy households, international moves (where insurance excludes self-packed items in most cases), and when you don't have the time. Florette's standalone packing service handles the labour without the transport — useful when you're using a different mover or self-shipping.